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Best pizza in Rio de Janeiro? Chef at Ferro e Farinha talks about success, Rio pizza and the future

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Sei Shiromaa chef born in New York and based in Rio de Janeiro, is an example of the fusion between cultures and flavors. Son of a Chinese mother and Japanese father, he grew up in Manhattan, where his parents had a restaurant, which planted the seeds of his passion for gastronomy. After a career in advertising, Shiroma decided to reinvent himself in Brazil 12 years ago, swapping the frenetic pace of the Big Apple for the beaches of Rio. Since then, he has become a reference in the Rio scene, combining the simplicity of pizza with multicultural influences: he opened his pizzeria, the Iron and Flour.

Shiroma’s success began with Ferro e Farinha’s innovative “mobile oven”, where his artisanal pizzas quickly won over the Rio palate. In just a few years, the chef opened several units of the brand, now present in iconic neighborhoods such as Leblon, Botafogo, Ipanema and Barra. He recently expanded his talent to Japanese cuisine with Suibi, showcasing his versatility and mastery of different cuisines.

Sei Shiroma and his pizza from Ferro e Farinha Photo: Rafael Mollica/Disclosure

Last month, it received a unique honor: Ferro e Farinha became the first pizzeria in Rio to enter the list of the 100 best in the world. “Now, with this award, I feel that we will receive people with a much more critical eye, to ‘see what it is’, if this place is really worth being on the list of the 100 best in the world”, says Shiroma, to Paladar.

Check out the interview with Sei Shiroma below about his career, future and Brazilian pizza.

Firstly, tell me a little more about your story? When and how did you start in the gastronomy field? How did you get into the pizza market?

I was born in New York, the son of a Japanese father and a Chinese mother. I was raised inside a restaurant in Manhattan, Suibi, one of the pioneers of Japanese cuisine in the city. So, from an early age, I lived in this universe, following the operation of the salon, the office and, of course, the kitchen. At the same time, living in New York, a city full of wonderful pizzas, it was common in my daily life to eat pizza of different styles. When I arrived in Brazil, at the age of 25, I thought about making pizza out of passion and also to reproduce the flavors I knew in my youth. As I didn’t have much capital at the beginning, I opted for a product that could be made with less investment.

The environment at Ferro e Farinha, in Botafogo Photo: Rafael Mollica/Disclosure

Ferro e Farinha has just received a very important international award. What does this mean to you? Does anything change in your work?

Firstly, I feel honored to be the first pizzeria in Rio de Janeiro to be included in the list of international awards. Now, with this recognition, I feel that we will welcome customers with a more critical eye, to “see what it is”, if the place really deserves to be among the 100 best pizzerias in the world. Different from before, when we were just a “find” without many expectations. Now, I feel like everything needs to be perfect. This changes our routine, our daily lives, because we need, more than ever, to do our best every day.

What is the main challenge in making pizzas today? How to stand out?

Pizza is now widespread throughout the world, with various styles, and many people making a quality product. To stand out, it’s not enough to just make a good pizza. In my case, at Ferro e Farinha, in addition to our own identity in toppings, we were pioneers in combining cocktail culture with good pizzas, which is a niche that we explore more than in places like New York and Italy. It was something organic within our brand. I think my story also attracts attention, with people asking themselves: “Who is this crazy person who came from NY and started selling pizzas on the streets of Rio de Janeiro?”

Today, in Brazil, São Paulo is still a reference when we talk about pizza in Brazil. Do you believe that Rio de Janeiro is gaining more space? How to go further?

I believe that Rio de Janeiro is gaining more space with good pizzas. São Paulo is still on another level, mainly due to historical Italian immigration and the Italian community established there. São Paulo was born with this Italian influence on its culture. Rio is heading in this direction. Today, we have much easier access to information, and I see people wanting to go further, opting for the classic Neapolitan style that is becoming successful. Cariocas are also traveling more, coming into contact with other styles of pizza, and, little by little, their taste buds are changing. As for personal preferences, we play with the story of ketchup on pizza, but we respect everyone’s taste. If people like it in Rio, that’s what matters. In the US, half of the people put pineapple on their pizza, and there are those who eat pizza with a knife and fork, and we need to adapt.

What advice would you give to those just starting out in the field? How to stand out?

First, do a self-assessment. If you are just curious, an adventurer, have just a slight interest: forget it and run away, because this industry is brutal. You will lose money and move away from your family and friends. Now, if you are passionate, have a crazy obsession and think about it every day, then invest, surround yourself with good people and make it happen. I always say at Ferro: “You’re only as successful as your system allows you to be.” So, on a daily basis, always make a checklist and monitor these points, no matter how boring they may be. For example: how is the dough? What is the oven temperature? Have all the wines and spirits arrived? Is the taste correct? Are the leaf colors right? I believe that this daily care is one of the secrets to success. Every pilot does a check before flying, and if something is wrong, the plane could crash.

Finally, how do you see yourself in the coming years?

In Rome, Milan and of course, São Paulo.

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